Great Divide (NOBO) - Day #21 South Pass City, WY to Pinedale, WY

Great Divide (NOBO) - Day #21

June 17, 2022

South Pass City, WY to Pinedale, WY to - 79 Miles

Start 6:43 AM Finish 2:44 PM

Total Duration 8:01

Moving Time 6:29

Stopped Time 1:32

Ascent 3,339 Feet

Descent 3,875 Feet

Tour Total 1,504 Miles

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/93688735

Last evening before leaving Miner’s Grubstake I filled all my water bottles. Atlantic City had a population of 37. The local bike hostel wanted $65 to spend the night in a cabin. I had spent $25 at the hostel in Salida and $15 for the cabin in Slater. I decided to ride eight miles out of town to an informal campground. My additional mileage was at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/93688665 and I hoped that uncle Herbie, my stats guy, was keeping up.

South Park City was another ghost/mining town located in a valley. It was now a museum. There were no services and I continued on through. I set up camp at ‘Informal Campground 13’, essentially a cow pasture near some nice rock outcrops. I later realized that I had gone to the wrong side of the road. The surroundings were beautiful, but the cows didn’t seem happy with my presence. I moo-ed right back at them.

It was still light out when I climbed into my tent. The air was warm and I was trying to avoid getting bitten by the mosquitoes. A pick-up truck drove by coming and going on the track right besides my tent. It got cold in the middle of the night, but not as cold as the night before. My water wasn’t frozen in the morning. I wasn’t used to packing up with my bike not leaning against something. This morning I started the ride in my socks, sock liners, waterproof socks, leg-warmers, down sweater, jacket, long finger gloves and glove liners. The moon was waxing in the western sky, and I had a long shadow in front of me. There were clouds to the west and the Wind River Range was to my north. The landscape featured brown rock outcroppings in addition to endless sage brush.

While packing up this morning I noticed that my front lower water bottle was missing. It had been a replacement and a complimentary bottle from the hotel in Breckenridge. I had two liters of water and was confident that I could make it to Boulder. I needed to get another bottle and get serious about water portage. I continued on the dirt with the Wind River Range growing large in front of me. I reached State Highway 28, which was the first asphalt I’d experienced since I left Rawlins. My gear shifter was cooperating this morning.

I was getting warm and stopped to strip down to my bare feet, cycling shorts, short sleeve shirt, and arm warmers. I flew down the highway with mile-long wooden snow fences to my right. There was very little motor traffic and my tail light was on. The sun went behind a cloud and I started getting cold. I sped down a hill past a fancy rest stop, and then crossed over the Sweetwater River. This was the south pass that was part of the Lander Cut-off, a shortcut for the Oregon Trail.

I was at level four today. I hadn’t showered since Slater, and hadn’t shaved or laundered my clothing since Steamboat. I planned on hitting the town in Jackson! I had my first pronghorn sighting of the day. They prefer to stop a good distance away, before glancing back at me. I entered the Bridger Wilderness Big Sandy Entrance. I took a right on dirt County Road 132. The scraping and smoothing machine was parked at the head of the road, also known as Lander Cutoff Road.

I was riding long ups and downs, while dark clouds were forming in front of me to the north. While headed up a large hill I noticed a van and tent set up ahead. A young man was standing alongside the road, and he wanted to talk to me. He was a climber who was here for the Cirques, which were part of the southern part of the Wind River Range. He wanted to know if I knew the weather forecast. He was concerned because he had heard thunderstorms were forecast. At least he had a van. In contrast, I was completely exposed. Note to self - always check the weather forecast when there's service. The bugs were in my face on the uphill and I couldn’t out-run them.

I was riding along a ridge top aligned with the Continental Divide. The Sweetwater River to the northeast flowed into Atlantic. The wind was once again out of the south and it was impossible to dictate. Fingers crossed I would be able to weave around the storm system. I passed a sign, ‘End of Fremont County Maintenance’. I was now in Sublette County on County Road 23–132. The dirt road became narrow with less defined side berms.

I felt a few raindrops and noticed that the Wind River Range was drawing the storm towards it. My shadow began to subtlety emerge on the pavement. I was captivated by the beautiful Wind River Range that shot straight up out of the prairie. It once again became overcast, and I was passed by more pronghorn. It was hard to believe that I had started this tour three weeks ago. It was impossible for me to fathom all of it, and that’s why I write these reports; so that I can remember a few slivers.

I ran into the Tour Divide second place cyclist Manu Cattrysse from Belgium. First place Sofiane Sehili was already a hundred miles ahead and almost out of the basin. Manu gave me his bear spray. Next I ran into south-bounder Jeff, originally from Queensland New Zealand. He was now a resident of Steamboat Springs, CO and was riding from Kalispell Montana to home. He told me that I would pass the third place racer in an hour. Jeff recommended that I push on to Pinedale, because there were plenty of services. He mentioned that there was a South African couple ahead of me who were in Pinedale today. He warned that I would have snow on Union Pass, and mentioned a lovely little cabin where I could stay. He told me about some construction and a muddy road which he had bypassed. While we were standing there talking, we noticed a baby pronghorn, which neither of us had ever seen.

I came to a T and took a right. There was a sign that read, ‘Boulder 42 miles, Pinedale 54 miles’. Jeff had encouraged me to go to Pinedale, which was a much larger town and made a lot of sense. I crossed over Little Sandy Creek and I noticed a beautiful spot where motorists were camping.

It was overcast and perfect cycling temperature. I came to a T and took a left to stay on Lander Cut Off Road, a.k.a. Country Road 132. I was trying to guess which pass / ridge I would cross. I was riding alongside a ridge and all of a sudden fir and aspen trees appeared. I hadn’t seen a tree in days. I reached the top of the ridge and could see the Tetons far in the distance. It was cooler and I felt a few rain drops. I put on my rain jacket for the downhill into the next valley. I sped down the hill and then crossed the Sandy River.

I met southbound divide cyclists Linda and Bart from Holland, whom had started in Bozeman and were taking it a day at a time heading south. They were concerned about the high altitude passes in Colorado. They confirmed that northbound cyclists Gerte and Andre, the South African couple, were in Pinedale. They suggested an outdoor shop in Pinedale, where I could get a new water bottle and strap. They also recommended the bike shop. They told me that the dirt road road would be smooth until I got to the pavement, and reminded me that I had a tail wind. Once again I was told about the Strawberry Warm Hut, eight miles before Union Pass. Linda used profane words to describe Union Pass. There had been a blizzard a few days ago. They assured me that route around Yellowstone was fine.

I had some nice flat grade and smooth gravel and I could really crank out the mileage with my tail wind. It was still overcast. I came around a bend and the pavement began. I was on asphalt again. I was on big Sandy Elkhorn Road also known as State Highway 353. Third Place Tour Divide racer Adrien Liecht passed me and didn’t stop.

I crossed over the East Fork River and the Fourth Place Tour Divide racer Ben Steurbaut passed me. These racers started exactly a week ago, last Friday at 7 AM Mountain Time. It would take me at least two and a half weeks to reach their staring point in Banff. As I got closer to Bolder I passed the Fifth Place Tour Divide racer Abe Kaufman. I heard that the next pack was far behind.

I rode through a small canyon that I shared with the roaring East Fork River. I was starting to pass homes and ranches, and finally rode into Boulder, population 170. I stopped at the Phillips 66 for a chicken salad sandwich, a bag of cashews, and a large Coke on ice. I met a motorist whom had cycled cross country in 1976. I overheard others talking about the closures in Yellowstone. I got on US 191 headed northwest to Pinedale and crossed Boulder Creek. My destination was twelve miles ahead and I had a tailwind. There were dark clouds to the northwest.

I began passing billboards for Pinedale; the Moosley Bookstore and the Aquatic Center. I passed the Pinedale Airport and Cowboy Country Distilling. A nice bike path began to the right of the highway and it was pleasant to be away from the motor traffic. I passed the Museum of the Mountain Man and noticed a sign, ‘Pinedale, All the Civilization You Need’.

I entered Pinedale, population 2005 and elevation 7175’. Banners with photos of the 2022 high school graduating class were attached to the lamp posts through town. I went straight to The Great Outdoor Shop where I purchased a new water bottle and a Volie strap. I then went to Geared Up Bike Shop for an inspection and tune-up. They replaced my chain and tightened my brakes.

The Wind River brewing Company was next door, where I ordered several Ghosttown IPA’s, the avocado mango salad, and a tuna melt. While I was editing this report I ran into the South African couple, whom had been ahead of me northbound. I uploaded this report before heading to their table for more beer.