Great Divide (NOBO) - Day #24 Jackson, WY to Grassy Lake, WY

Great Divide (NOBO) - Day #24

June 21, 2022

Jackson, WY to Grassy Lake, WY - 74 Miles

Start 8:05 AM Finish 4:28 PM

Total Duration 8:23

Moving Time 6:22

Stopped Time 2:01

Ascent 3,514 Feet

Descent 2,493 Feet

Tour Total 1,759 Miles

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/94283912

I slept great in room 102 at the Ranch Hotel in Jackson. I woke up early and was able to roll over and get another hour of sleep. My body was exhausted and my back was still aching from slamming into the tree branch. It was a long slow pack up. Everything had been removed from my bike from yesterday's power wash. It was almost like being back at square one in Hachita. Everything was clean, I was at level one, my devices were all charged, and I had all of my devices. It was time for the tour’s next map section. I stopped at the post office to mail home map sections three and four. I met a guy in line who had done the Tour Divide last year. I then went to CVS for an ibuprofen refill and a Starbucks Frappuccino. And then I was off.

I took Wyoming Highway 22 W, and there was a bike lane to the side of the road. The air was chilly and I was wearing my socks, leg warmers, and rain jacket. My fingertips were freezing but it was sunny. I had a feeling that I would warm up soon. The bike trail was amazing with stunning views of the mountains. It led away from the highway and even had it’s own bridge across the Snake River. There were numerous cyclists out on the trail commuting to work, taking their kids to school, or just enjoying the scenery.

Today was the summer solstice, the longest day of the year and the official beginning of summer. The weather forecast for the next couple days looked good. As I approached Teton Village I could see the ski slopes in addition to a descending hang glider. The town was off route and, from what I could surmise, seemed synthetic.

I entered back into Grand Teton National Park, and once again bypassed the fee collection window by using the oncoming lane on the other side of the building. The pavement soon ended and I was on dirt with a lot of puddles. The past few days had seen heavy rain. My bike was still clean and I wanted to keep it that way. I was sharing this road with tourist motor vehicles. It was a really nice section and eventually the pavement resumed. I got to Moose and found myself back on the bike path that I had been on Sunday. I was really glad that I had taken the full spur route today. It was beautiful.

Jenny Lake was a mob scene with hundreds of parked motorists out on the highway. The crowding was due to Yellowstone being closed. The people who had lost their accommodations because of the flooding and closure of the park were calling themselves 'Yellowstone refugees'. I heard on the news, though, that the south loop would be reopening tomorrow. Traffic would be restricted and even numbered license plates could enter on even days and odd license plates on odd days. The north loop would be indefinitely closed. Out on the pavement I cranked into high gear with my rear flashing light blasting. I passed the barrier at Signal Mountain Lodge, where I had stripped down on Sunday. Good weather makes such a difference. I made excellent time on the asphalt. It was bright and sunny with puffy clouds, and the air was cool. Soon I was back at Jackson Lake Dam.

I reached the end of the spur and came to a T. I took a left on US 89, and was back on the main route towards Colter Bay Village. I passed a Tour Divide racer outside of Jackson Lake Lodge. Then I passed a couple who were going southbound fully loaded. I heard from Caity who said that the road ahead was perfect. Thank goodness!

I had traveled forty-eight miles and was hungry. I hadn’t wanted to stop at the swarming lodges that I had passed earlier. In Colter Bay I went to John Colters Ranch House and enjoyed the barbecue pulled pork sandwich with potato wedges, a house salad, and a Pepsi. There weren’t many people here, ostensibly because the nearby Yellowstone gate was closed. I was now on map section two, which would take me to Helena, Montana.

I returned to US 89 north, and I remembered this section from 2018. I recall a number of fantastic Kyle Hughes photographs from this stretch, including one of me in my TransAm jersey. It was a beautiful here, and I was surrounded by densely packed fir trees and snowcapped mountains. I rode alongside the Jackson Lake shoreline, which was mud because of the low water level. I didn’t know why they were letting so much water through the dam. Down stream the Snake River was raging. All of the streams were full from the recent rain.

I was thinking about the positives of the Yellowstone closure. In 2018 I couldn’t stand cycling through Yellowstone because of all the motorists, RV’s, campers, and people who had no idea how to drive the behemoths they had just rented. Noting that 2022 was Yellowstone’s 150th anniversary, I thought that it was fantastic the park was getting a reprieve from all of these motorists. I believe that people should only be able to traverse Yellowstone by foot, bicycle, or shuttle. US 89 would currently be choked with motor traffic if Yellowstone was open.

Large yellow dump trucks with flashing lights kept passing me. They were hauling gravel and returning empty. At 2:30 PM I was on a long straight climb and I was getting hot, so I pulled over to remove my leg-warmers, socks, and jacket. I added my arm protectors. A motorist pulled over to ask if I was alright. A Tour Divide racer passed me and I took a photo. Then I rode through an old burn area. I passed another racer, and then exited Grand Teton National Park. I then rode through miles and miles of dead standing trees that were like ghosts. Two more Tour Divide racers passed me and one of them had a British accent. Then I passed another racer.

I pulled off the highway at Headwaters Lodge. I stopped at the convenient store for a six pack of Snake River Brewing Hop Springs IPA, and a bag of Fritos. I was planning to be living large in the forest tonight to celebrate the solstice. I was on Grassy Lake Road and a dump truck full of gravel passed me. This was ostensibly the construction area that I had heard about. There was a Road Closed gate, and a ranger opened it to allow the truck through. I jutted around the truck and continued. I crossed Pole Cat Creek and noticed a sign that read, ‘Narrow Winding Road Next 20 Miles’. Another dump truck passed me and kicked up a cloud of dust.

I rode a nice segment along the Snake River north of Jackson Lake, and could look back at the Tetons from the north. The scenery was stunning, with vivid green pastures, fir trees, distant mountains, ponds, streams, and the snow-capped Tetons. I love the Tetons, and wouldn’t mind returning some day.

I met Tour Divide racer Alex from Toronto who was trying to do the whole route in twenty-six days. He told me where I could get food in the next two towns. We had to keep it short because we were getting eaten alive by mosquitoes. Shortly thereafter, another racer passed me. Thank goodness the dirt here had a little time to dry. I then met racer Daniel from Tasmania.

There was a double downed set of trees blocking the road and I had to carry my bike over them. Every time I stopped, swarms of mosquitoes would attach themselves to me. They were even biting through my gloves. I passed piles of snow alongside the road. Unlike Sunday though, today was really pleasant.

I went around a closed gate and entered the Targgee National Forest. I was already ahead of my itinerary. On one hand, I wanted to catch up with Caity, Andre, and Gerda. On the other hand, it was beautiful here and I wanted to savor it. I stopped at beautiful Grassy Lake and pitched my tent a few feet from the water’s edge. It was mosquito infested and the swarms alarmed me. I would need to purchase a new can of Deep Woods OFF tomorrow. This was grizzly country and I hung my food. I slipped into my tent and edited this report while drinking beer and eating Fritos.