Great Divide (NOBO) - Day #37 Fernie, BC to Elkford, BC

June 02, 2022

Great Divide (NOBO) - Day #37

July 5 2022

Fernie, BC to Elkford, BC - 44 Miles

Start 9:13 AM Finish 4:49 PM

Total Duration 7:36

Moving Time 5:06

Stopped Time 2:30

Ascent 3,023 Feet

Descent 2,005 Feet

Tour Total 2,708 Miles

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/95582655

I slept great last night at the Raging Elk Hostel in Fernie. I was in Kodiak pod number four, my first time sleeping in a pod. Traveling is unpredictable. One moment I’m freezing, wet, tired, and contemplating stealth camping under a picnic pavilion. The next moment I’m in a hot shower, and then an hour later I’m in an amazing pub. The bar was hopping last night, and packed full of people enjoying live music. The poutine and beer tide me over.

Last night I had forgotten to put my phone in silent mode and I received a bunch of text messages early this morning. Fortunately I was able to roll over and get another hour of sleep. My body was completely exhausted, and it was a slow pack up. Even clipping my fingernails was an ordeal because I had no strength in my hands. My clothing from yesterday was 70% dry, and I used the body heating method for the remaining 30%. I talked with a south-bounder who had used GPS to navigate the logging roads yesterday. The Elk Valley Trail was not easy.

I rode over to Mug Shots for breakfast where I enjoyed the avocado toast and a breakfast burrito. Fernie was a lovely town and I enjoyed it this morning in the sunlight. The people were friendly, and I noticed wonderful shops and cafés with an incredible mountain backdrop. I was ahead of schedule and was planning to take the highway today after Sparwood because of a washout. I decided to continue on the Elk Valley Trail and hoped that it would be better than yesterday. The air was slightly cool. I started without my leg-warmers or socks, but was wearing my unzipped jacket. There were a few clouds in the sky.

I couldn’t believe how narrow some of the trail was. I rode through tall weeds that brushed against my calves and hips. The narrow wood planked bridges had no railings and were slippery. One wrong move and it would be over. At certain points the trail would join a logging road. I passed the remains of the Hosmer mine. I came to signs saying that the road was closed, and large piles of dirt barred motor vehicles. On the other side was a weathered double track. It seemed like it could rain at any moment, and I didn’t trust the weather in Canada.

I came to some kind of mining operation. There were large piles of gravel and an artificial pond that had ostensibly filled an excavated pit. There was large earth moving equipment scooping, piling and transporting gravel. The trail wound around the pond and into the woods. After a few minutes I came to a huge pile of debris and there was nowhere to proceed. The trail ended and I gave up. I rode back through the heavy construction equipment and got on Highway 43. There were four lanes of high-speed traffic. I regretted not purchasing GPS data for this segment. It was confusing and not enjoyable.

Out on the highway I passed a group of four southbound cyclists. I then passed another three. Afterwards I saw a couple on a mountain bike tandem with frame bags. I couldn’t imagine riding the narrow single track or some of the steep chunky climbs I've done on a tandem. I wondered how many cyclists were taking the Elk Valley Trail. I gave it my best shot.

I rode into Sparwood, population 3,784 and home of the world’s largest truck. It was a coal mining center. I stopped at an A&W for two root beer floats, where I met at a couple from Phoenix who were riding southbound. We complained about the Elk Valley Trail and they gave me the lowdown heading north. I also met another south-bounder whom had started in Jasper. He was carrying an inflatable kayak and was looking forward to Glacier National Park.

I left Sparwood on Highway 43 and rode through Elk Prairie. I then took a right on Lower Elk Valley Road. I noticed hand-painted motivational signs in everyone’s front yard. ‘When life throws you rain, play in the puddles’, ‘Don’t worry, Be happy’, ‘There’s a light at the end of the tunnel’. They seemed to be related to COVID.

The route led me back to Highway 43, where I took a right. I turned on my taillight and radar. I decided not to be a purist. I was twelve miles from Elkford and it was 4 PM. I had only ridden 35 miles. The single track was slow and mosquito infested. In addition it was hard to navigate. I wanted a nice comfortable arrival in Elkford which would be my last stay in civilization until I got to Banff.

I entered Elkford, 'The wilderness capital of British Columbia'. I need something to eat so I followed Google directions to the Lamplighter Pub. I ordered a few pints of Fernie Huckleberry ale, along with a caesar salad and a breaded fish dinner. I charged my devices and edited this report. Chrome crashed and I had to do a re-edit.