Great Divide (NOBO) - Day #34 Cedar Creek Campground, MT to Whitefish, MT

Great Divide (NOBO) - Day #34

July 2, 2022

Cedar Creek Campground, MT to Whitefish, MT - 87 Miles

Start 7:33 AM Finish 9:21 PM

Total Duration 13:48

Moving Time 8:22

Stopped Time 5:26

Ascent 4,988 Feet

Descent 5,175 Feet

Tour Total 2,500 Miles

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/95292501

I slept well last night at Cedar Creek Campground. After the rednecks left I moved my tent over to the dry grassy area near the dilapidated picnic table. Then I hung my food and garbage, and crawled into my tent without being bitten by a single mosquito. It got chilly during the night but I never completely zipped up my sleeping bag. My air mattress loses air every night but not enough to be a problem. I sleep on my sides and flip back-and-forth. The birds started chirping before dawn. From their vantage point up on the tree limbs, I suppose they could see the sunlight before it made it’s way into the valley. My tent was soaking wet this morning from condensation. Everything was wet. I rode a mile back up to the route. My jacket was zipped tight and I was wearing my leg-warmers. My toes and fingertips were freezing. The sun was still low on the horizon and blocked by the trees.

I was on County Road 9719. A bunny ran across the gravel and I crossed another creek. I passed two lightly loaded southbound cyclists who were probably just out for the day. There were many downed trees across the road and large craters that need to be avoided. I rammed into one and started hearing a strange rubbing noise. My bungee had pushed the trash down through the rear rack and it was rubbing against my rear tire.

I met two guys who were traveling southbound. They were from Florida and had started in Minneapolis. They had ridden through the Dakotas and were aiming to make a big loop back to Florida. They were traveling heavy and had stopped for a moment to soak up the sun. Today I was once again treated to the gurgling sounds of water. What a contrast to New Mexico. I came to a T and took a left on County Road 2714. There were so many bunnies. They were larger than the ones I was accustomed to, and all had dark fur and white feet. I could see Swan Lake through the fir trees below to the right. I got hot on the climb and opened up all the vents on my jacket.

I kept climbing and oncoming ATVs emblazoned with American flags passed me. It was July 4th weekend. I kept climbing and finally stopped to remove my jacket and leg-warmers. A pair of male and female southbound dividers passed me. I finally reached the top of the climb and had a long downhill into the valley. I passed a female divide cyclist and enjoyed pavement at the bottom. I then passed a group of six southbound cyclists.

Along with the asphalt came motor vehicles in both directions, which was annoying. The asphalt was a little chunky and I was used to having the whole road to myself. Down in the valley things opened up, and I began to notice houses. Magnificent Swan Ridge was to my right. At the intersection of State Highway 206 I asked a motorist where was the closest place where I could get some food. He directed me to a Cenex station about a half mile east, where I found The Shack. There were two eleven year-old boys running the place. They made me two cheeseburgers, and I got a Coke on ice from the Cenex.

After lunch I returned west on State Highway 209. I passed Ferndale and after another mile I took a right on Swan River Road. I would be on pavement for next stretch and my rear tail light was on. I pedaled along the Swan River Walking Biking Path, which ran alongside Swan River Road. I came to the intersection with Highway 82 and noticed the Echo Lake Café, which was where I should have stopped for lunch. I was now on Echo Lake Road. I missed the turn off for Foothill Road and ended up in Echo Lake. I had to climb back up to correct myself. A lost motorist summoned me, and I was unable to help him

I zigzagged through the valley along the base of the ridge, and was briefly joined by a day cyclist who had passed me earlier in the day. He was from Whitefish and had studied in the Bay Area. He was into various types of cycling, and gave me a tip on wild camping tonight, in case the campgrounds were full. I took a right on Creston Hatchery Road, and then a left on Lake Blaine Road, and then a right on Van Zandt Road. I did a whole lot of stair-stepping around grass pastures that were being harvested.

I came into town on Columbia Falls Stage Road, and then took a left on four lane US 2 to cross the enormous green-tinted Flathead River. I entered Columbia Falls and knew exactly where I was. I’d been here in 2019 on the ACA Northern Tier Route. I noticed two dividers sitting out back of Cowgirl Coffee, and pulled in to talk to them. One was northbound and the other southbound. I got updates on Red Meadow Pass, which seemed to be fine.

I stopped at the Backslope Brewing and asked for a table near an outlet. I ordered a Crooked Wind IPA and got to work. I began recharging my devices while I uploaded yesterday’s report and posted social media. I paid my July bills and purchased airline tickets and hotel reservations for the endgame in Jasper. My server eventually asked me to move to a smaller table. I hit my four pint limit and enjoyed the sesame almond salad with tofu. It’s always strange at these places when I roll in and turn them in to my personal office spaces. After I left, I rode around the ginormous Weyerhaeuser wood pulp plant. We need that scratchy toilet paper. I then cycled past the Flathead County solid waste disposal site.

I passed several day cyclists who were out enjoying the beautiful scenery. I pedaled through the trees and alongside grass pastures towards Whitefish. This was the same section that I’d ridden in 2019 after doing Going-to-the-Sun Road on Logan Pass in Glacier National Park. The descent had been harrowing due to a ginormous hole that had worn in my rear tire. I had managed to find a replacement in Whitefish.

In Whitefish I returned to the Buffalo Cafe, where I had eaten with Team Spokane back in 2019. Unfortunately it was closed this time, so I cycled over to the Bonsai Brewing Project. They had a sprawling outdoor space, and folks were enjoying the evening. I sat at the bar and started with a Roll Bounce IPA. I then switched to the Spunky Monkey. I ordered a Cheeseburger along with chips and salsa. Everyone was playing a dice game called one four twenty-four. I got involved and never came close to winning.

On my way out of town I stopped at the Cenex for a six pack of HUCK IT, along with some breakfast provisions for tomorrow. It was forecast to rain this evening and I saw dark clouds. I could feel the temperature shift as I continued north around the lake.

I was on Lakeshore Drive and had all of my lights blazing. It was 9 PM, and a cyclist passed me heading in the same direction. He let me know that he could see my tail light from a good distance back. That was reassuring. I had a doofus commentator on Crazy Guy who questioned why I brought a Varia taillight. I’ve actually used it quite a bit on this tour. I’ve also seen plenty of ghost bikes and white crosses with bicycles icons. I highly recommend a good taillight, and the Garmin Varia in particular.

I got to the end of the lake and saw a gravel turn-off and decided to set up camp. The mosquitoes were ravenous and my tent was still wet from this morning. It wasn’t the greatest combination, but I had a six pack of huckleberry beer and a bag of Fritos. I finally got set up before it turned dark. As I was editing this report, a motorist pulled into the gravel turn-off and parked not forty feet from me.