Great Divide (NOBO) - Day #16 Kremmling, CO to Steamboat Spring, CO

Great Divide (NOBO) - Day #16

June 11, 2022

Kremmling, CO to Steamboat Spring, CO - 81 Miles

Start 6:25 AM Finish 5:28 PM

Total Duration 11:03

Moving Time 9:05

Stopped Time 1:57

Ascent 6,548 Feet

Descent 7,225 Feet

Tour Total 1,143 Miles

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/93059212

I slept great last night at ‘Doc’ Ceriani Community Park in Kremmling. Last night evened the score, because in 2018 I had the worst night’s sleep ever in this park. Long story short, in the middle of the night I had gotten soaked by lawn sprinklers. From this experience I learned about sprinklers in western states. There wouldn’t be fields of green grass out here without them. I was fortunate to know about this small park and picnic pavilion. I could hear distant freight trains throughout the night, and somewhat regretted not going to the monster truck rally. The mosquitoes had been bad in town and also at the park. I had forgotten about the military helicopter permanently on display in town. I see so many war machines on exhibit in small town America, which serve as propaganda to sign up high school kids. It was chilly out on the road and my fingertips were cold.

The surrounding ridges and, in particular, the large mesa to the northwest of Kremmling really put things into perspective. The town and all of man’s creations seemed like child’s play in comparison to these magnificent natural wonders. I stopped at the Kum and Go for a Starbucks Frappuccino, KNG 100% orange juice, Bon Appétit blueberry muffin, and a sausage egg and cheese croissant.

I had a crappy three inch shoulder riding back south on State Highway 9. My rear tail light and radar were on, but the passing motorists made me nervous. Yesterday Ryder had mentioned that he hated riding alongside motor traffic. I was getting that feeling this morning. The sky was clear blue as I crossed back over the train tracks and then the Colorado River.

I took a right on gravel Trough Road. Last night at the Mexican restaurant I had overheard a conversation about this road. A couple was asking whether it was passable by motor vehicle, and a local replied that it had recently been chemically treated. Additionally all of the washboards had been smoothed. Today would be a big climbing day and perhaps a long day to Steamboat Springs, where I would be meeting friends and taking an off-day tomorrow. The road was as smooth as asphalt. I climbed a ginormous hill and was overheating in my jacket and leg-warmers but it was still early. I probably had a downhill ahead, where I would need them again. The air was cold and the sun was baking. It was still early.

I realized yesterday with Ryder that I wasn’t used to touring with other cyclists. When riding with others it becomes more about maintaining a pace. So, for example, to stop and take a photo, urinate, or even dictation became secondary. There were a lot of motor vehicles on the road this morning and many of them were towing rafts. It was Saturday, and I passed gatherings of people going down to the river. I got hot again on the next climb and had to once again unzip my jacket.

I stopped to photograph some purple wildflowers, and it became a race with the mosquitoes. Whenever I’m climbing up into a valley it’s always a guessing game as to which way the road will meander. I don’t think about it as much on the downhills. By 8:30 AM I had ridden sixteen miles. I was on another uphill and pulled over to remove my leg-warmers and jacket. I don’t believe a single mosquito got me, but they tried. Sometimes the air is so thick with bugs that I have to lift my buff over my mouth so that I don’t inhale them. I enjoyed a fantastic downhill. I got chilly but managed. I took a right on Grand County Road 11 towards Radium. I relished an incredible downhill with sharp curves dropping into a deep narrow canyon carved by the Colorado River. It was sublime! I spotted freight train tracks down at the bottom of the canyon alongside the river. I noticed an avalanche warning sign and then saw a pack of elk scrambling up the cut, to the left of the road. Their scurrying hooves caused rocks and debris to cascade down into the middle of the road. I was at Inspiration Point.

Down in the canyon, I rode alongside Sheephorn Creek as it flowed into the Colorado River. There was a guy out on the river standing on his raft fishing. The freight train tracks were now at eye level directly across the river. I passed the campground and wondered if Ryder was on the road yet. It was 9 AM and I had traveled twenty eight miles. I had fifty-eight miles to go. There were no services in Radium and not much to the town. I immediately began climbing up the other side of the valley. The dirt road was narrow with washboards. The climb was tough and there were steep grades. I passed a lot of beautiful wildflowers today and enjoyed their sweet fragrances. Across the valley I could see Inspiration Point and I also noticed a freight train hauling coal cars east towards Kremmling. I had incredibly steep grades up towards an aspen grove, and there’s no way that I could have done this climb on my Surly set-up. I had yet to hike-a-bike on the divide.

Further up the road I passed the Rockin’ H Ranch and a few other outposts. It was steep twisty turvy climb to the pass, as I enjoyed the dandelions and aspen trees. I noticed a group of people who were setting up for a wedding in a delightful spot in the middle of nowhere. Then I came to a large area with downed trees and burned areas. I didn’t know if there had been an invasive insect, a fire, or both. I finally reached the high point near Gore Pass and, as I started to descend, took a left on Grant County Road 206.

By noon I had gone thirty-five miles and was getting warm. There were now big white puffy clouds in the sky. I came to a stream, Rock Creek, which flowed across the road. I inspected the stream before I walked my bike across it. The cold mountain water was over a foot deep and my sandals were useful. I just had to remove my socks. As I pushed my bike across the shallowest parts, the water level came tantalizingly close to my front compression sacks and rear panniers.

I passed Rock Creek Stage House, which had originally been built in 1880. I continued down an even grade and crossed over State Highway 134. I remained on County Road 270, which was still gravel. I finally reached the top of 9,040’ Lynx pass and it was 1 PM. I was now following Morrison Creek downstream. I was pleasantly surprised to see the tour’s first moose. I knew they were in the area and had been keeping my eyes peeled.

Two southbound loaded female cyclists passed me, but they didn’t stop. I had a feeling they were riding some of the local trails and not the divide. The dividers always stopped. At 2 PM I was two thirds finished for the day. I had twenty six miles to go, and stopped to flip my map section. I got to Stagecoach Reservoir and enjoyed a nice single track around part of it. After the dam I went around a gate and had a great downhill on gravel through a narrow valley alongside the Yampa River.

I came to a gate on the other end of the gravel road, and went around it. I was now on asphalt County Road 18. I reached busy State Highway 131 and took a left. After a quarter mile I took a right on County Road 14. I could see Steamboat Springs from several miles away. With a population of 12,089, I believe it was the largest town that I had gone through on this tour. The area is home to several natural hot springs. Upon first hearing a chugging sound, early trappers believed that a steamboat was coming down the Yampa, and hence the name.

The cycling path riding into town was thick with mountain bikes. Twenty people were demonstrating in front of the Route County Courthouse in conjunction with the national March for Our Lives rallies. I went straight to the Nordic Lodge, and receptionist Janelle told me about Bucking Rainbow Raft Outfitters and Strawberry Hot Springs. My friends Sam and Scarlett would be arriving tomorrow. After a shower and a laundering of my clothes in the sink, I hung my laundry and headed to Mountain Tap Brewery. I enjoyed several Current IPAs and two Pizza Margaritas. Afterwards I returned to the lodge and sat in the hot tub out back until it closed at 10PM. I heard from Ryder who survived the hill out of Radium. I also heard from Otso, who was stricken with COVID in Salida. I was exhausted and went to bed.