Great Divide (NOBO) - Day #12 Luders Creek Campground, CO to Salida, CO

Great Divide (NOBO) - Day #12

June 7, 2022

Luders Creek Campground , CO to Salida, CO - 86 Miles

Start 7:14 AM Finish 6:45 PM

Total Duration 11:31

Moving Time 8:17

Stopped Time 3:14

Ascent 4,037 Feet

Descent 6,694 Feet

Tour Total 888 Miles

Details at: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/92590561

I slept well last night at campsite one at Luders Creek Campground. It got cold during the night and I was wearing my merino wool long underwear and had my down sweater wrapped over my feet. I was fully enveloped in my silk liner and sleeping bag, and slept in one position on my side for most of the night. I had pleasant dreams. Last night upon my arrival at the campground, I conducted a methodical set-up including hanging a bear bag. I had noticed bear scat on the road as I approached the campground. I enjoyed my bag of refried beans and even split open up the bag so that I could thoroughly lick the insides.

This morning the sun started streaming into my tent at 6 AM, and it was time to get up. I could hear chainsaws and falling timber in the distance. It had rained last night and my tent and ground cloth were damp. I set them in the sun to dry. I had a feeling that it would rain last night and I had I covered my seat with a plastic bag and put my helmet and my gloves in my left pannier. Back on the road I was wearing my rain jacket and leg-warmers. It was a perfectly clear blue sky and my fingertips were freezing. It was cold in the shade as I climbed up towards the pass. It would be a forty-eight mile ride to my service stop. I had less than a liter of water and a single remaining bag of refried beans. For those keeping track, I was at level four. The last shower I had was in Abiquiu. I did a bird bath yesterday morning in the restaurant in Del Norte. I was in need of a thorough cleaning, shave, and clean laundry. The idea was to take care of these hygiene needs in Salida, but I wasn’t sure how it would time out.

There was no sign at 10,067’ Cochetopa pass. I learned that I was traveling on a historic stage route. I was on the Saguache to San Juan toll road, which had been constructed in 1874. I had crossed the Continental Divide and was now on the western side, and I had entered Gunnison National Forest. I froze riding down the other side of the pass, particularly when I was in the shade. It eventually opened up and I left the forest. I then found myself in a wide grass valley and left Gunnison National Forest. I came to the intersection of County Road 17GG aka Saguache County Road.

I rode by Dome Lakes and noticed people fishing. I finally reached State Highway 114, and stopped at the cattle guard to do my wardrobe change. I took a left on the highway heading northwest. I was circling around 11,529’ Razor Creek Dome. There were numerous snow capped mountains to the north and west. I came to the intersection of County Road WW13. There was scrub to either side of the road, and cattle grazing on open range. Puffy white clouds were starting to appear in the sky. A motorcycle passed me going in the other direction, and the next thing I knew I was on gravel County Road 45. There was no serious climbing.

From a mile out I could see Doylestown and US Route 50. There were no services in Doylestown, but I was in familiar territory. I had ridden through here last summer on the ACA Western Express route. The next thirteen miles to Sargents I had cycled going in the other direction. The smooth asphalt was great and I had a nice wide shoulder, but I hated sharing the road with motor traffic. I glanced to the south towards the dirt roads that had brought me down from the pass. It was amazing that I had just been out there. I turned on my rear light, but my radar wasn’t working. I didn’t bother to attach my side view mirror.

After a few miles I crossed back into Sasquatch County. I saw a sign for Monarch Mountain skiing, and I could see the road coming down from the pass. I would be getting food here, and I was starving. At 11:40 AM I entered Sargents, no population listed. I went straight to the Tamatchi Creek Trading Post, where I had met Jeff last year. I sat down in the cafe and plugged in all of my devices. I ordered an Eddyline brown amber ale, and then had two more. For lunch I had the BBQ Pulled Pork sandwich with fries, and the Monarch Salad, with chicken, strawberries, nuts, and lettuce. I edited and posted yesterday’s report, and talked to my sever about bike packing and the GDMB race, which would be starting this Saturday. A pair of northbound Great Divide cyclists came into the cafe while I was there, but I didn’t get a chance to talk with them. The server told me that they were spending the night here at the campground.

After thoroughly filling my belly I headed out on Marshall Pass Road aka County Road 243. The gravel road was a nice steady climb with a tailwind. It was bright and sunny. There were clouds on the horizon but none were above me. The gurgling Marshall Creek was to my right. I finally reached a grove of Aspen trees and some shade. In many places the creek had been dammed up by beavers and I could see their earthen stick mounds. I noticed many areas of knocked down Aspen trees and wasn’t sure what the story was.

The route switched back and cut away from Marshall Creek and I started passing piles of snow as I neared the summit. I finally reached the top of 10,842’ Marshall Pass and was once again on the Atlantic side of the Continental Divide. I entered San Isabel National Forest. I would be on National Forest Road 200 heading downhill. The downhill was intense. It was extremely bumpy and my poor palms took a beating and were becoming bruised. I kept trying to shift my positioning on my handlebars but needed to keep my grip near the brake levers. I was trying to get down the pass as quickly as possible so that I could make it to Salida, where there was a hostel and a brewery. At one point I rode through a narrow steep valley with super high drop-offs. There was a beautiful lake down below. I eventually reached road 206 which was smooth dirt. It took me to Mears Junction where I took US 285 to Poncho Springs.

I entered Poncho Springs elevation 7,469’ and population 737, and got on County Road 124 towards Salida. I had taken this road last year. I once again had phone service and punched in the address for Hayduke’s Hideout, where I would be spending the night. I had a resupply package waiting there, as well as a replacement tube of chamois butter. Salida had a population of 5,236.

I pulled in and met the proprietor Copenhagen and his five week old baby. He said that I was the first cyclist through this season. I was shocked to find my headlight illuminated full blast in my handlebar bag, where I was stowing it when not in use. The bumps had activated it, and it was blazing hot. It easily could have set my handlebar bag on fire. I met through hiker Just Right, who was struggling with a bicycle tire on one of the hostel loaners. I helped her out and got my dirty clothing into the washing machine. I met through hiker Pure Stoke before I rode to the brewery.

I had been to the Soulcraft Brewery last year on the Western Express. It was bingo night, and I was a little disappointed this time. I ordered a Bon Ton brown ale and got a Cuban sandwich from the food truck in the lot. At last call I ordered a Cherry ale. It was 8pm. WTF? I stopped at a gas station and picked up a few cans of Breckinridge Brewery Avalanche Ale for the hostel. When I got back, I hung my laundry, and took a shower. I traded stories with Just Right and Pure Stoke until bedtime. Just Right was from my hometown Cincinnati. I slept on the floor on my Thermarest, with my sleeping bag liner and sleeping bag as blanket.